How to Make a Beautiful Moss Basket

Materials

14 inch wire basket framewire hangerSunshine potting soil or MySoil1/2 bag or moss2 tbsp fish meal2 tbsp 14-14-14 Osmocoteslow release fertilizer

Plants for a Sunny basket

1 Geranium (Zonal) for the top3 trailers for the top3 fillers for the top24 plants (trailers & fillers) for the sides(We can show you what we use)

Plants for a Shady Basket

1 Tuberous Begonia for the top3 trailers for the top3 fillers for the top24 plants (trailers & fillers) for the sides.(We can show you what we use)

Method

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As the beginning of a new year unfolds it is a great time to both reflect on last year and make plans for the New Year.  Sure there is plenty to do in the garden, to get ready and cleaned up for Spring, but spending some time reflecting and planning is also very important and quite satisfying and it may save you time in the long run.

My favourite way to start is to bundle up, grab an empty notebook and your favourite warm drink and wander through your yard.  Try to look at your garden with fresh eyes.  You might need to walk down the street and then approach your yard to try to see it "fresh". Don't overwhelm yourself.  You might only look at one part of your garden today so start by picking one that is the most important to you.

Most gardeners know which areas need some work but here are some areas you might think about:-

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A couple of summers ago I vowed that I was done dragging hoses around my deck before or after a long day at work. My planters on my deck are large whiskey barrels and only need watering about every third day but I always have two hanging baskets that need watering daily and while it's really hot sometimes twice a day.

I could handle watering the barrels with the hose every third day but doing the baskets everyday was getting tiresome. I started with the Hanging Basket/Container Drip Kit and decided to put up a very simple drip system for the two baskets.

I gathered the tools required, the Drip Kit, a small hammer, a pair of scissors, a cup of hot water (to soften the tubing) and began the job. Fifteen minutes later I was done and I could not believe I had waited that long to do it.

The Raindrip system is really slick. The last summer I added my deck planters to the system and at the moment I am adding the three tomatoes that I grow in five gallon pots.

I could hook a timer to it if I wanted, it is just a matter of screwing it in between the tap and the beginning of the system but I don't mind turning it on and off. I wander around while it is running, enjoying my morning coffee, while I am checking on all my plants.

...Experience the Joy of Gardening!

 

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Training of a fruit tree begins in the early years, and the aim is to develop a well balanced framework of branches that are capable of supporting the fruit crop. This permanent framework provides the reference points for pruning a mature tree.

Early pruning should only be enough to establish this desired framework; heavy pruning on a young tree can delay fruiting. I find open centre pruning is the most common and the most beneficial to use on fruit trees. This is the style of pruning I will explain today.

Open style pruning produces a bowl or vase shaped tree with no main central branch but instead many of the major limbs, or scaffold branches, angle outwards from the main trunk. These branches usually start at about 2 to 3 feet above the ground and should spiral around the tree with about 6 inches between each of the branches. Being able to identify the difference between new and old growth and what is a fruiting spur and a fruiting bud is important when pruning.

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Many a gardener wish they had fruit trees old enough to bare fruit in their yard. A house can be built within a year but a garden must grow and mature trees whether ornamental or fruit yielding are a treasure.

If you don't have these treasures then it is time to rectify the situation. Planting trees takes vision, patience and planning and in the not too distant future you will reap the rewards of your efforts!

Fruit trees grow best in hot sunny locations where the ground drains well. Most home gardeners will want to plant semi-dwarf fruit trees, these being about a third smaller than their standard counterparts. As semi-dwarf trees are smaller they will easier to pick the fruit from and easier to prune.

Some of the best types of trees to grow in our area are apple, pear, cherry and plum. Once you have decided on the type of tree, you need to decide how many trees you have room for. If you only want one tree, be sure to get a self fertile tree. Otherwise your tree will not reliably set fruit. Pollination can be complicated so be sure to take the time to discuss pollination when you purchase your trees.

Some excellent self fertile varieties are; Spartan Apple, Lapin Cherry and Italian Prune Plum. All of these will set fruit on there own.

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